Try Organic Milk say Oz Clarke and Andrew Lorrain-Smith

Organic farmers are backing a campaign fronted by TV wine expert Oz Clarke, to get people really appreciating the taste of organic milk. The organic white stuff is Oz’s favourite drink and it seems he is in good company in Scotland, where 22 million litres of organic milk were produced last year.

Edinburgh based Stuart Martin, Marketing Manager of OMSCo Scotland, explains why he thinks organic cows produce such tasty milk. “Our farmers use traditional farming methods to produce purer, more natural organic milk that is good for you, the cows and the countryside. The cattle are fed on the very best quality non GM feed, and the fields are not treated with chemical pesticides. The cows get to relax out at pasture – I really believe that happy cows mean great tasting milk.”

Around 100 of these happy cows are from Hag Brae Farm near Vogrie Country Park, where Andrew Lorrain-Smith runs his organically based mixed farm. He says, “My father moved here in 1951 and I took over in 1968. We began to convert to organic in 1999, partly because we realised there was a number of people who wanted it and partly because I was interested anyway. I had already reduced our use of antibitoics and it seemed logical to move to full organic production.”

There were practical considerations to consider, such as whether the yields would be as good, whether weeds could be controlled and whether the premium prices for organic products could be maintained. But it proved easier than Andrew feared, “provided you go about it in an orderly way.”

Andrew has 380 acres, with the principal enterprise being dairy but Hag Brae is a mixed farm because all the food for the herd is produced on the farm and that means growing wheat, barley, oats and beans as well as grazing. “In this part of Scotland the winter is longer than 6 months so we have to conserve grass to feed them through the winter.” A grazing system needs variety so there are sheep as well and the calves are fattened as well, providing a small beef enterprise. “But everything is designed to serve the dairy industry.”

As if the vagaries of the Scottish summers weren’t enough, there are a fair number of hurdles to overcome before becoming certified as an organic producer, with detailed plans having to be made, monitoring, inspections and license fees.

Andrew welcomes the The Taste Organic Milk campaign, in which Oz Clarke investigates the truth behind what makes this often underrated drink taste so good and lends his distinguished palette to creating vintner style ‘tasting notes’ for organic milk which he calls the ‘Four S’s’*.

During his foray in the fields, Oz admits he’s often asked what his desert island drink would be and reveals that people are usually surprised when he says organic milk.

“Everyone expects me to pick some grand red wine, some exalted champagne or venerable vintage port. But I don’t. I tell them that all I’d want is a supply of the finest, freshest, purest, British organic farm milk,” Oz explains.

“If I’m to drink one drink for the rest of my days on some South Pacific atoll, I want one that I’ll never tire of, one that satisfies my thirst, calms my spirit and gives me a delight in its taste which will never cloy. Milk: naturally pure fresh organic milk, milk as it should be.”

As part of the campaign, Oz has devised his ‘Four S’s’ tasting guide – See, Smell, Savour and Swallow. He advises that selecting a tall clean glass, having the milk at the right temperature, somewhere between cool and room temperature, and taking time to taste the individual flavours, are important in appreciating the essence of this all natural product.

Oz describes smells such as the bright optimism of spring, the heat and haze of high summer, the mellow but wistful richness of autumn and tastes such as home-made scones, dollops of thick whipped cream on Wimbledon strawberries and fresh churned butter on crisp new white bakers’ bread.

He also explores parallels with wine-tasting’s terroir, looking at how different factors affect the taste of milk, from where the cows live and how relaxed they are, to the time of year and type of feed.

As well as tasting better, organic milk contains more vitamins A and E and more antioxidants than non-organic milk. Naturally, (pun intended!) it costs a little more (around a £1 a week for a family of 4) but increasing numbers of people are voting with their purses.

To watch Oz Clarke’s tips on how to taste organic milk to appreciate its full potential visit www.tasteorganicmilk.com.